Central Whitegoat SW Slopes

Grade: II 5.5

First Ascent: Unknown

Nature of Route: Some moderate snow slopes and a short rock crux, fairly straightforward.

Approach: Park at Thompson creek and try and follow trails along the right side of creek to Lion/Cline col. Drop down other side of col on its left side(looking down) and cross the flat glacier to the lakes, 5 – 7 hours from car (GR:213708). Both of the larger lakes provide good camping spots.

Climb: Up the large snow ramp between the Central and West Whitegoats to the col. If the cornices at the top of the ramp look intimidating it is possible to climb up a steeper gully system farther right. From the col follow the ridge until reaching a 60m rock step. This can be climbed via a narrow but obvious gully to the right of the ridge. This is the crux of the route and depending on conditions can be quite challenging. Continue up easy scree/snow slopes to the summit. Bring crampons and an axe and possibly a small selection of rock gear. 4 – 6 hours from lakes.

Descent: Back down the same way, rappel the rock band using natural anchors. Bring extra slings. 2 – 3 hours.

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