Grade: III 5.8
First Ascent: J. Mills(solo) - Sep 2004
Nature of Route: A challenging line up the left side of the impressive face. The rock is generally good but gear appeared to be scarce. Probably about 300m of hard climbing.
Approach: Park across from the ridge and cross the river however you see fit, either swimming or by boat. It's very deep, very cold, and pretty damn scary naked and alone in the middle of the night (trust me!). Once across bushwack for about an hour and a half until breaking tree line on the ridge. Head into the scree bowl below the face and scramble up to the highest bit of scree. The route starts directly above.
Climb: Starts out with some easy climbing on short rock steps between scree covered ledges. Where it looks like it is going to get hard, it does. The first rope length is the crux with climbing on good rock up to 5.8 Above this continue up a large gully/corner for several rope lengths of 5.4 – 5.6 climbing, trending left whenever in doubt. Since I was soloing I left the prominent corner near the top where it turns into a chimney and gets steeper. This provided easier climbing but gear placements looked scarce. A direct line up the corner would probably offer better climbing and gear but certainly at a harder grade than heading out left.
Descent: Down the East Ridge.
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