NE Face - Quarry Route

First Ascent: J. Mills, Monty A., Dave K., Marcel P. - Sep. 2003

Nature of Route: This difficult and fairly remote route features 9 pitches of hard climbing. A few of the pitches are excellent but the rest are run-out with lots of loose rock. Rockfall is a major hazard so minimize time in gullies and try to find protected belays. Bring a full rack including a bunch of pitons. Boots were used on the first ascent but rock shoes may be helpful. The steeper parts of this face have lots of potential for good but hard routes.

Approach: The parking spot is at approximately GR 364614. Park at Whirlpool Point at a small pullout on the North side of the road about a 5 minute drive West of the Siffleur Falls trailhead. Cross the North Saskatchewan River on a large cable, it's hard work but lots of fun. Follow the river downstream for about 10 minutes until coming to a large grassy camping area below some small cliffs. Leave the river now and follow trails and an abandoned road South for about an hour. Once it starts to seem like the road is going the wrong direction, start bushwhacking Southward into the drainage and creek that flows directly North from Mt. Peskett. Follow the creek to good camping spots at the base of the mountain. 4-5 hours from road.

Climb: From camp walk up the moraine and wind your way up scree gullies and easy scrambling until reaching the ridge about half way up the bottom of the two major steps that make up the mountain, 1-1.5 hours. Scramble up the ridge until reaching a steeper band of good rock. Climb a prominent corner crack (5.6) through the band to easier ground and the large plateau below the upper step. The upper step provides 8 pitches of sustained climbing:
P1: Start up the prominent right leaning gully just left of the ridge crest. After about 30m of loose rock traverse left into a long prominent right facing corner and a belay with 2 fixed pins. (5.6)
P2: Climb the corner for 55m past a fixed pin and belay below a large chockstone roof at a fixed pin. (5.8)
P3: Struggle over the left side of the chockstone then grovel up and left over easy rock and scree. Belay on low angle rock after 50m. (5.8+)
P4: Go up and right to a great layback crack (NOT the right facing corner). Above the laybacks build a belay (tricky) at some big loose blocks at 50m. (5.9)
P5: Continue up the thin crack above then traverse left on the prominent scree ledge and belay off a large block at 45m. (5.9)
P6: Traverse further left on the scree to a major gully system which is climbed on its right side to a hanging belay after 55m. (5.8)
P7: Head straight up for a full pitch to a belay with a fixed pin above some loose blocks on a small scree ledge. (5.8)
P8: Follow the gully to the top! (5.8)
Be sure to sign the summit log in the cairn.

Descent: Drop down the scree slopes on the West side of the mountain and rappel one 60m cliff band about half way down. From the base of the rappel, head up and right on scree to the ridge above camp. Drop down towards camp at a break in the cliffs at the North end of the ridge. 3-4 hours from summit. An additional 3 - 4 hours gets you back to the road.

Pics: The upper section of the route.