Grade: III/IV 5.8
First Ascent: J. Mills, Marc C. - May 2003
Nature of Route: This is a challenging route with several sections of serious, run-out rock climbing. Retreat from the upper section would be quite difficult. Bring a selection of rock gear including pitons. Crampons and an axe are recommended for the upper section but may not be neccesary later in the season.
Approach:Park about 6km West of the Cline River just west of the parking spot for the ice climb Elliot's Left Hand(WI4). Approach the ridge by bushwhacking to tree ramps leading through the prominent lower cliff bands. Follow the tree ramps with some scrambling and one pitch up to 5.8 depending on luck with route finding. From the top of the cliff band continue up through the trees to base of ridge (2-3 hrs).
Climb:A good pitch of 5.6 leads to a plateau and tree belay. Continue upwards over a short 5.4 section to a broad, flat plateau leading to the ridge proper. Follow the long wildly exposed ridge with frequent difficulties up to 5.6 and lots of loose rock. You better be comfortable soloing lots of moderate terrain as belays would be all but impossible to find. Despite the moderate grade, this is undoubtedly the crux of the route, very exciting! At the top of the knife-edge ridge, traverse right on scree/snow to the prominent corner leading up and left through the headwall. The first pitch in the corner was dubbed the sand pitch and consists of steep dirt (seriously) that was climbed with an ice tool, leading to less frightening, but possibly wet, ground. Head left up scree/snow to a stance-only belay at 60m. Continue left then up a good section of rock (5.8) to a ridge. Belay here at a fixed pin. Rappel or downclimb off other side of ridge to scree/snow gullies. Follow the gullies up to main ridge. Some scrambling and spooky traversing on big cornices (depending on time of year) leads to the summit. (8 - 12hrs from car)
Descent: Head down the ridge on the other side of the mountain heading to the Elliot/Sentinel col. From here you can drop off right with some difficulty down the gully to the Cline River and the road. (2 - 4 hrs). It is about 6km along the highway to your car from here. An easier and safer but much longer descent is to drop off the left side of the col and follow the drainage to a creek leading to the Cline River. Follow river to road.
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