Mt Elliot, Cool Climbing

First Ascent: J. Mills, Mike Adolph., Nov '02

Nature of Route: This is a sustained winter ice/alpine route that involves lots of thin ice and run-out mixed climbing. It hasn't yet been pushed to the summit but we reached the top of the ice and feel it is a worthwhile ice outing. For those who can handle its scary nature it is an excellent climb. The approach and route often suffer from very high avalanche hazard so chose your day wisely!

Approach: Park as for the ice climb "C'est la Vie" which is the middle of the three prominent gullies through the lower tier of Mt. Elliot. Bushwack to the base of the "C'est la Vie" gullies.

Climb: Begin by climbing all the gully pitches of "C'est la Vie" then head straight up the snow slopes above to the base of a prominent thin ice line. Head straight up the ice for a few pitches until it branches left and right. Follow the right hand line with occasional forays onto the rock. The odd fixed station (pins and nuts) will be encountered. The route so far has not been pushed past where the ice stops but looks reasonable if the rock is dry.

Descent: Rappel on pins (bring lots) and v-threads or push on to the top and descend as for SE Ridge.

Pics:

Mike Adolph on one of the crux sections.

J. Mills approaching the ice.	A close up of the ice that is covered with the red line in the top picture.