First Ascent: A.M. Daffern, P. Ford – May ‘73
Nature of Route: The Shoulder Route follows the ridge of Mt. Abraham right from the road all the way to the summit. Although all the main difficulties are rock climbing, it should be approached as an alpine route rather than a rock climb. The rock and protection quality is good at the cruxes but in many other spots is not so good. Since the route mainly stays on the ridge there is some great exposure for both the leader and the second. All known ascents have been made without rock shoes although they would undoubtably make a couple of the pitches easier. This is without a doubt the best alpine rock route in the Corridor and is comparible in quality to the routes of Mt. Louis and Castle, but with a way shorter approach.
Approach: Park at the base of the ridge.
Climb: Scramble up the ridge above Abraham Slabs (short steps up to 5.3) for quite a ways until reaching the base of the first of the two main large steps.
P1: (5.3) Scramble up the chimney then continue over some easier terrain to some trees on a flat area leading to the base of a steeper section of rock.
P2: (5.4) Climb a short crack in a left facing corner to easier terrain which leads up to the base of some steep cracks.
P3: (5.8)Head up a crack/corner on the top right side of the steep section (NOT the parallel crack or left facing corner further left) to a two bolt anchor. Alternately traverse left around the steep wall then head up easier rock(5.5).
Scramble up and right along the ridge on 4th class terrain to the large grassy plateau between the two major steps, walk for about 1 kilometer to the base of the second step. Escape is possible from here via a bolted rap line in the east side near the begginning of the plateau. Look for a large cairn. I believe 2 ropes are neccessary for this.
P4-6: (5.5 R, 30m,50m,61m): Stay on the ridge for three pitches (bolted stations). This stretch is very difficult to protect. The fifth pitch is a rope stretcher that ends at a single bolt at the base of some slabs just left of the ridge line.
P7: (5.6, 50m) The loose pitch. Head straight up a weakness in the slab from the station to another station on the ridge. To say the least, the rock high up is somewhat less than solid although it has cleaned up considerably thanks to numerous guided ascents by COE guides.
P8: (5.6, 40m) Continue along the ridge to a grassy area with one bolt on some exposed rock.
Walk to next steep section
P9: (5.6, 40m) Follow the ridge to a single bolt on some lower angle slabs. Don’t go too low on this pitch.
P10: (5.7+, 40m) Head up the crack above the station then exit left to another two bolt station. An excellent pitch.
From here it is mostly scree with some fourth class scrambling to the summit. Aviod most of the difficulties by dropping down on the left side of the ridge. Be sure to sign the summit log!
Descent: Drop off the summit on the other side(away from the highway) and cross a short ridge to the top of a huge couloir on the left(west). Head down the couloir then either bushwack and follow the right hand side of the creek to the road or rappel right down into the canyon and follow the creek out. This couloir is visible and obvious from the road just west of the base of the ridge.